Tanzania – Dar Es Salaam
Tanzania is a peaceful, tropical country in East Africa, bordered by the Democratic Republic of Congo, Burundi, Rwanda, Zambia, Kenya, Mozambique, Malawi and the Indian Ocean.
Dar Es Salaam, affectionately known as Dar, is the major economic city in Tanzania. A dynamic, colourful destination of culture, sometimes left in the shadows of Mount Kilimanajaro, a spot left behind in favour of Zanzibar and thought not to be as wild as the Serengeti.
Locally translated in Swahili, the Arabic name Dar Es Salaam means ‘Peace of Heaven’. English is the second language here with everyone speaking Swahili. It’s relatively easy to learn as the words are pronounced phonetically, it’s fun and the locals love it when you have a go!
Dar Es Salaam has loads to offer, lush countryside, Indian, British & German colonial architecture, stunning beaches, superb restaurants, a buzzy bar and nightlife scene, bustling shopping experiences all of which can rival any European city.
Situated just below the equator its always hot, average temperatures range from 26 degrees C to 35 C with the rainy season between March and May. I took a flight from Glasgow with KLM for around £600, via Schipol touching down in Kili en route to Dar. I left home at 6am and arrived at my final destination at 9.30pm feeling refreshed and excited. Tanzania is 3hours ahead of the UK. The KLM flight was excellent, other airlines fly from London via a choice of routes. Hotel choices are varied and for every budget, Movenpick, The Kempinski and The Double Tree Hilton are three of the top ones I’d recommend.
The currency here is the Tanzanian shilling. 10 000 TSH is the biggest denomination of notes, equivalent to £4. An expensive meal for 2 with wine can come in at less than £20. A coffee is 50p ( there are no Starbucks or Costas here ), Beer
( Serengeti or Tusker are the best ) at £1 and a Coke or my favourite Stoneytangaweezee ( locally produced ginger beer ) at 50p, an ice cream comes in at 40p and these are average prices across the board. Food and drink unrelated, I had a 2 hour shampoo & set in a local salon and it cost £2.50.
It’s easy to get around the city, taxis are very cheap, agree a price before you get in! Buses ( dala dalas ) are popular, though very crowded, Bajajs look like they’d be fun and a bit scary, think motorised rickshaws.
The beaches around Dar are simpy stunning. Take your pick of Kunduchi, Kipepeo or White Sands, three of my favourites. A short trip by boat and head to the surrounding islands of Sinda, Bongoyo or Mbudya.
I headed for Mbudya, 30 mins after leaving and you’re on a beautiful secluded marine nature reserve island, perfect for swimming, snorkelling, chilling in a hammock and for lunch. Place your order in the morning, its caught for you then cooked. Eat with your fingers and savour lobster, calamari, crab, red snapper, parrot fish, whatever can be caught, all served with chipsy ( chips ) and washed down with a cold drink. One of the best Sunday lunches I have ever had.
I visited The National Museum and The Botanic Gardens where peacocks roam around a plethora of trees,flowers and fauna. The Kivukoni Fish Market is a full on assault on the senses. Every shape and size of seafood is available, sold on a retail or wholesale basis. It was quite an overwhelming experience! A portion of grilled calamari with piri piri sauce from the café there comes highly recommended at 50p.
When it comes to shopping you won’t find any European or American high street brands. There are modern shopping malls, my favourite haunts are at The Souk, Slipway where you can pick up local textiles, handmade jewellery, organic skincare products, art and souvenirs. Dar has a distinct flavour of ethnicity and tradition on one hand and African modernity on the other.
Restaurants are in abundance – European, Ethiopian, Thai, Chinese, Indian, and of course local which specialise in seafood and mishkaki, grilled a kebab of either chicken, beef, prawn or pork.
Sip a cocktail at The Slipway and enjoy the splendour of the sunset – it’s breathtakingly beautiful. Clubbing and the Q Bar, Runway and 8th Floor at The Kempinsky are all favourites of hip locals, visiting tourists and Diplomats residing here, ideal if you want to hang out with the savviest of the style conscious set. There’s also a great selection of local halls, pubs & clubs playing Bongo Flava – a mix of Swahili, hip hop, R & B, Zouk and Rumba. The third Saturday of the month at Meditteraneo is fantastic and rivals any cool club in Ibiza -
a magical location to eat, chill, enjoy sublime music and then watch the sunrise over the Indian Ocean.
Tanzanian people are beautiful. The culture is one of politeness and respect, you’ll never hear raised voices or see road rage and it’s frowned up on to even impart bad news. Everything runs rather slowly though. Namely, the traffic, the internet and ordering food and drink.
This East African country has loads to offer and you could easily while away a week in Dar before heading off to Zanzibar for pristine beaches, Arabian Dhows and colourful bazaars. Serengeti National Park in the North boasts incredible wildlife sanctuaries and the Ngorogoro Conservation Area and of course, Kilimanjaro.
More on these destinations in the future, for now though, if you fancy an inexpensive week away enjoying an African adventure in a welcoming, buzzy and cultural beach side city, Dar Es Salaam is just the ticket
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